Mahonia Center

I spent the morning talking with Lorna about the organization of Mahonia. She provided me with a comprehensive outline of the projects.
First, some history.
In 1994 the Nature Conservancy with help from the EU and the Walindi plantation started the Mahonia center. In 1997 the community education programs began. A year later the Nature Conservancy left Mahonia and Mahonia became it's own autonomous program. The Nature Conservancy still maintains an office in Walindi (as well as in Port Moresby on mainland PNG) and the partnership continues.

There are four main programs associated with the Mahonia Center
1. Community based conservation
2. Research proram
3. Education
4. Walindi Nature Center

1. Community based conservation - began in 2004 with the aim to assist local communities in resource management and facilitate locally managed marine areas (LMAs). This includes community awareness with up to 12 volunteers who conduct night meetings in communities. Youths are highly involved and produce dramas to their own communitites. This program aslo includes a specific woman's course to empower the women in the soceity to have first hand knowledg of conservation initiatives. Their graduation is this week!

2. Research Program - began in 1992 when Max Benjamin, owner of Walindi, noticed that Kimbe Bay showed an unually high biodiversity in such a small area. Such diversity as been the topic of many research projects primarily coming from James Cook University in Townsville, Queensland. The research program provides boats and laboratory space to visiting scientists. Any findings are given back to Mahonia who translate the research to the community.

3. Education program - began in 1997/98 and has many different components. This is the major focus of Mahonia
3a. Intensive MEEp (Marine Environment Education Program) - 4 high schools participate for 13 weeks every saturday to learn theory, basic marine biology, ecology, and resource management. They conduct an outreach awareness program to their own school and community. They graduate with a certificate. Only 20 students are accepted to these programs so students wishing to participate must apply and fundraise for their transportation.

3b. Marine Camps and excursions - this is where students come to the Mahonia center and stay for a week for a mini-intensive MEEP. They conduct reseach work in the library, make presentations, have debates, and learn to snorkel. They also get to do fish dissections to learn anatomy. Again, kids fundraise in their communities to find their own way here (often involving air travel).

3c. Teachers MEEP - this is for Primary school teachers to give them the knowledge to teach the required enviornmental section. The money to get these teachers in is provided by Mahonia and unfortunately this program was cancelled this year due to a low budget.

3d. Marine Outreach Awareness - program assistants visit schools to conduct marine conservation ideas, pupet shows, and discussions. They talk about destructive fishing practices and resource management.

3e. Baby MEEP - this is for kids age 8-9 (i know, they aren't babies). Every wednesday for three weeks they come to the center to go bush and beach walking to learn about the environment from a basic understanding. Again, there was not enough funds to run this program this year.

Lorna estimates that in the past 9 years Mahonia has reached over 200,000 students through these programs.

The last major program is
4. Walindi Nature Center - any income from rent, boat hire, big groups, conference space usage, is used to support the above programs as well as staff wages, insurance, and other basic costs.

There is a board of directors that oversea all of this and initiate grant writing and funding requests. Cecile Benjamin, co-owner of the Walindi, is the chair-person.

It's amazing, the world we live in - not only do I have internet here, it's wireless. So, with that in mind I figured I'd post some pictures of the last few days.

Pygmy sea horse - right in the center, looks like a piece of the gorgonian coral. can you see it?
It's a bugger to get a good picture and my lights aren't working, so hopefully I'll find more
scale: sea horse is about the length of your pinky nail

Today I'm off with Lorna and Shannon. Lorna works for the Mahonia Center and Shannon works for the Nature Conservancy. I spent a long time talking with Lorna last night about life here in Papua New Guinea. Lorna is actually from Bougainville which is closer to the Soloman Islands. She talked off their 10-year revolution to become an autonomous state separate from Papua New Guinea. Started due to controversy over the gold mining on the island, it turned into a horrific crisis where men disappeared from both sides (including her cousin). Lorna can't be more than 10 years older than me - so it is amazing to think of the differences of our childhoods. The crisis ended around 1994 and Bougainville has it's own constitution, government, and school system. The Bougainville people are proud, Lorna says, but the lasting effects of such a bloody revolution are probably yet to be fully seen.

Mahoney at Mahonia

I've made it to PNG! It was slightly tricky to get here but, as always, things work out. I have learned that a little leap of faith, trust in people, and patience pays off very well. I had some amazing help getting here especially from Port Moresby (on mainland PNG) to Hoskins (West New Britan, see map below). October/November/December should be the dry season here but recently there has been non stop rain. This has caused major flooding throughout the area. Plus, there are pot holes in the main Hoskins runway that can't be fixed so the two major jets that come in every day are canceled. I was put on a special flight (for special people!) that goes out at 6am every morning. Because of this change, a homestay was arranged for my overnight in Port Moresby.

I am now writing from the Walindi resort - owned and operated by Max and Cecilia Benjamin. It's a beautiful, small, resort nestled into the forrest right on the beach with a small pool, outside eating, and bungelows. Today I got in late morning and was picked up by a Walindi driver. Also on my flight were four British divers who adopted me (well, I, being lonely and searching for friendship as always, adopted them as well). Apparently I'm an American with a sense of humor (who knew?) so I think they are happy with me. We went on two dives today which were quite nice. Unfortunately it's over cast and there's a lot of sediment in the water from the rain so visibility wasn't all that great. I did get to see a stone fish for the first time! Pictures will have to wait for a while.

The main reason I am here, though (besides doing a bit of fun diving) is to check out the Mahonia Na Dari center located right next door (land was donated by Max and Cecilia). This center also houses the Nature Conservency and some other local organizations. Primarily concentrating on marine conservation awareness, programs include school group visits, communitiy events, field trips, ecotourism, and also education to other parts of the country including the surrounding islands. I had a long talk today with Lorna, a program manager, who explained the system and programs to me. It's quite amazing what they've accomplished. I am hoping that during my stay I will not only learn more about these programs but also actively participate. (I also love the fact that it's named Mahonia - Mahonia Na Dari actually translates as "gaurdians of the sea.")

check out the webpage: http://www.mahonia.org/

Work starts on monday so until then I will be diving tomorrow!

My trip!

Well I'm off again tomorrow after spending almost two weeks here in Sydney. I quite like it here - beautiful scenery, friendly people, great diving. I stayed here just long enough to like it and get to know people. I'm always sad to leave when this happens and part of me wishes I could simply stay and enjoy myself. Unfortunately I have spent the last week not diving and actually working furiously on graduate school applications. I surprised myself, mostly, that it actually got done. I want to thank my amazing reccomenders for helping me out in such short notice.
Sydney has been great. My time here has been wonderful thanks primarily to Jayne Jenkins, the australasian coordinator. She and her boyfriend Collin, put me up in their guest bedroom, fed me, drove me, and entertained me. My trip could not have happened without Jayne's help. And of course there is Mat, my counterpart, who has also helped to make this trip easy and fun.
I spent yesterday at the famous Toronga Zoo in hopes of seeing a Koala, Kangaroo, and other Australian animals. It was a real treat and I enjoyed my time very much.

Last night was Jayne's gallery opening - she and another photographer presented their work in Bondi beach this week. Last night we toasted with champagne as Valerie Taylor opened the night. The pictures are beautiful and represent Sydney underwater animals. It was a fabulous night with food and drink and meeting more of the Syndey's top underwater people.

Ron and Valerie Taylor

Jayne and Collin - wonderful hosts, in front of one of my favorite's of Jayne's prints

Today I spent working more on my computer and packing. Tonight is an easy, early night as I travel to Papua New Guinea early tomorrow morning. Apparently the runway in Port Moresby has pot holes in it so I have to stay overnight in order to get another plane to Kimbe the next morning. If I get stuck in Papua New Guinea, please feel free to visit me.

A weekend in Woy Woy

I took the train Saturday morning to Woy Woy which is about an hour and a half north of the Sydney. I was picked up by Steve, a fellow marine scientist who is applying for the scholarship this year (the Australasian one). Steve has been involved in many local organizations and had told me about a community meeting in his home town.

So after lunch and a snorkel at his favorite beach we drove to this meeting. I had a great time meeting everyone there. The group had been organized by one woman to educate the community on marine systems and conservation. The participants attended seminars and workshops for free and then developed their own projects to be accomplished in three months to give back to their community. This was their last meeting where they proposed their projects. One included writing a brochure for local hotel rooms about the area's conservation needs, and others will produce programs for school children. None of them are scientists and most barely know basic ecology and anatomy of invertebrates and marine animals but they shared one thing in common: their commitment to their environment and education. I would love to be involved in something like this in the states - or even direct one myself. We shared food and stories and were also treated to a talk by an aboriginal man who played the didgeridoo.

Community meeting

Man playing didgeridoo

Kookaburra!

The next day Steve, his friend, and I went on two local dives. It's amazing to see the different sea life here - or everywhere - and compare it to what I'm used to. Seastars are seastars but the species here are unique, beautiful, and quite photogenic.

Then come the sharks - I got to see my first Wobegongs and Port Jackson sharks as well as a huge sting ray. Absolutely beautiful elasmobranchs! Visibility was slightly poor but some shots turned out okay.

A wobegong - about 4 ft in length

A beautiful acsidian and a very close relative to us chordates

The day was lovely and a great way to spend a Sunday. In the evening hopped back on a train and am back in Sydney.

The dive site

by air, by sea

One thing about being on the scholarship - there are opportunities available that wouldn't be quite there if one was just a tourist. Having friends to stay with, of course, makes everything a whole lot easier and more interesting. I am staying with Jayne Jenkins, the Australian coordinator. She is very well connected within the Australian dive industry. This trip, so far, has only been made possible by her help.

Yesterday we were invited to take a helicopter ride to Kangaroo valley! We met up with Jayne's friend Andrew White, an executive producer, who works closely with director James Cameron. Andrew owns his own helicopter and helps out on a ranch in Kangaroo valley. He had to get down there to muster his cows so Jayne and I went along to document and help.

Andrew's helicopter
Jayne getting ready to climb in.

Sydney Harbor

Jayne and I having a great ride

Flying over beautiful southern Australia

Andrew and Allen muster the cows

My first time driving in australia.
It was mostly off-roading and I didn't stall once!

Getting a ride with Andrew to muster cows

We had a great time visiting the farm and learning about cattle ranching. Jayne and I mostly stayed out of the way especially of the large cows but we enjoyed watching them happily munching on grass in the fields. After two hours Andrew flew us back to Sydney where we got back in the car and headed to the Sydney's fish market for lunch. They dropped me off at the Sydney aquarium where I spent a few hours looking at the beautiful fish and reptiles. The Sydney aquarium puts most of the aquariums I've been to to shame. It was beautifully designed, tons of great information, and had a wonderful collection. I even got to check out a huge crocodile!

After an long day I made my way back to Jaynes using the ferry public transport system. It was a beautiful ride that took me past the opera house yet again.


Today I had a relaxing morning catching up on computer work then headed over to Pro Dive, a local dive shop, to learn about servicing regulators! I didn't get a chance to take any apart but I think I'm finally getting my head around the differences between piston and diaphragm regulators, balanced and unbalanced, and many other options.

The sights to see

I spent a lovely morning walking around with Austalasian scholar Mat to check out the Opera House and botanical gardens. We first walked across the famous harbor bridge.
It is always neat to see famous structures and landmarks but it is so strange to see the Opera House after so many years of viewing it through post cards, TV, and even board games. It is a beautiful building with lovely surroundings.
Perhaps it's beacuse I am staying with friends but it doesn't seem particularly odd that I am here. What I mean by this is that I have always wanted to travel to Australia and now that I am here I am not overwhelmed by a sense of awe. Yes, it's beautiful and gorgous and I am so glad to have come but it feels normal in a way I hadn't expected it to. Perhaps, again, it is from all my traveling and it's something that I am used to. I had the same feelings when traveling to Paris last March and Egypt this past May. I think that instead of the world being a large, unfamiliar place, it is now small and manageable.

Making a good first impression on Australian national TV

It was a long trip but I made it safe and sound to Sydney. From DC to Boston to San Fran to Sydney - my 22+ hour trip (not including layovers) went actually quite well. I arrived in Sydney in the morning on a beautiful, sunny day. I was picked up by Mat, the European scholar, and was promptly rushed to the beach by coordinator Jayne Jenkins to meet conservation volunteers. It turned out that the very next day there were to be sea horses released into a small part of Sydney harbor by the Sydney aquarium. There had been some slight controversy in this move but it was to go forward. They were to be released at a shark net that has become home to not only sea horses but fish, sponges, and other marine life.


So the next day I got up early (I woke at 5am ready to go) and got ready for my first dive in Australia. Because the net only goes down to at most 2.5 meters (we're in metric now, baby!) and the substrate is all sand, the divers tend not to wear fins. So, I donned my wet suit, my new BC, and strode into the water ready for some aerobic water workout. Jayne and I stayed in for about 75 minutes just walking along the net looking for searhoses. We passed by cuttle fish, cute little brightly colored fish, a sting ray, and finally we found the sea horses.

Two beautiful cuttle fish on the outside of the net

A gorgeous, pregnant male

Hanging out on the net

When we were freezing, we surfaced only to see that the main event that day - the release of the seahorses - had brought on four different news stations! There were about 20 people milling around with cameras and microphones. A small booth had been set up with the soon-to-be-free-seahorses happily swimming along while cameramen furiously taped them. One camera man strode up to me and, noticing my underwater video camera housing, asked me if I had gotten footage of the sea horses. I said yes and he offered $50-$100 for my film! I was soon ushered back into the water to document the release of the little guys (I was one of two with underwater video). It was a grand event and the little horses looked quite content in their new home. We surfaced again, ready to end the day of diving, and I gave the news reporter my film of that day.

The camera crews at the beach interviewing the scientists

I worked on my own things the rest of the afternoon but right before dinner Jayne and I turned on the TV at 6pm to channel 7. After about 15 minutes of other news, the story was on! They showed a few minutes of the story including --- my filming! So there you have it, I am perhaps the first scholar to actually make it on to national news, my video, at least. Jayne even had a small cameo as we entered the water. Very pleased but I will be more pleased when that cameraman finally returns my tape. But it was a very good introduction into Sydney diving and certainly an exciting day. I am working hard at organizing my next few weeks as well as organizing my life. It's 10:30pm and I've just had dinner with Ron and Valerie Taylor (if you've seen 'Jaws' you've seen their filming) which means it's way too late for me and I must head to bed. I will leave you with one final shot from today's dive:

Squid at the end of our dive

I think this is going to be a good trip.

Here I go again

In my last post I stated that I never have any luck winning dive trips - well, that's not entirely true since I guess this whole year is a "dive trip" albeit not the traditional kind and I did not win it by placing my business card in a hat or treasure chest.

My new trip starts tomorrow at 6:30am when I board the plane in DC to take me to Boston. Hop on another plane to take me to San Francisco, hang out for a few hours, and finally hop skip and jump onto a final plane that will take me to Sydney missing Sunday completely.

This past week has been hectic - between driving back from Orlando, spending a night in Boston, fixing my ears, unpacking, repacking, and making sure my life is in order before heading off again, I never seem to have quite enough time to get ready. Always rushing at the end and staying up too late. But all in a good cause. While I think the phrase "I'll sleep when I'm dead" is a bit too strong, perhaps "I'll sleep when the scholarship year is over" fits more aptly. With that said I have extra-strength Dramamine to accompany me on the 12+ hour flight to Sydney and I hope they show good movies.

See you in the land down under!

Ta!